1977 - BSES South East Iceland Expedition - Vatnajokull Icecap - climber
1978 - Brathay Exploration Group’s Expedition Jotunheimen Massif, Norway - climber
1979 - School Venture Scout Expedition Italian Dolomites & Mt Blanc Massif - climber
1980 - Alberta ’75 mountain peaks project – Canadian Rockies – project coordinator and lead climber
1983 - Joint Services E. Nepal Expedition – 1st Ascent: S. Ridge, Manaslu North (7,154m.) - climber
1984 - Exercise Kulu, Indian Himalaya - New routes up to 6,500m. Lead Climber/Medical Officer
1985 - The British Peruvian Cordilleras Expedition - new routes inc. Nevado Churup W. Face Direct solo. BBC Mick Burke film award. Leader. Partners: Al Hinkes; Roger Payne; Iain Peter; Rick Thorns
1986 - Janka Raju. 1st Ascent: NW Face Nevado Cayesh (ED3 V1 5.9). Partner: Terry Moore
1987 - British Shishapangma Expedition – 1st Ascent SE Face Shishapangma (8013m). 1st Ascent Pungpa Ri (7,486m.). Climber and cameraman. Partner: Steve Venables
1989 - Big Wall Biafo ’89 Rock spires on Biafo Glacier (6000m). Leader. Partners: Brendan Murphy; Rob Durran; Silvia Woitek; Helga Brun; Jackie Topham
1990 - Troll Wall, Norway. Winter attempt “Death to All” A4, V1, 5.11. Leader
1990 - AK-SU – N. Face Direct. Russian Pamirs. Partners: Mick Fowler; Crag Jones; Chris Watts
1992/3 – Paine, Patagonia. 1st Ascent N. Ridge the Shield (ED2, VI, 5.11). Partner: Andy Perkins
1994 – Bugaboos - S.W. Buttress of N. Howser Tower. 1st Ascent: Young Men on Fire (VI, A4, 5.11). Partner: Warren Hollinger
1995 - The British Polar Sun Expedition. 1st ascents of Great Cross Pillar and The Turret (Nuvualik 700m, A3+, 5.10). Partners: Warren Hollinger and Mark Synnott
1996 - The British Greenland Expedition. 1st Ascent of North Face of Nulamertorsoq. Partners: Silvo Karo; Tony Penning
1997 - Alaskan Big Walls Expedition: a) Zenyatta Mondata (A5), El Capitan, Yosemite - Partner: Ian Parnell b) East Face Direct Mt. Barrille, Ruth Gorge. Direct hit by avalanche at ¾ height on face. Partner: Silvo Karo
1998 - A Greenland Odyssey. New routes and peaks in Southern Greenland, via a 60’ yacht. Partner: Sir Chris Bonington CBE. Yacht Skipper: Sir Robin Knox-Johnston CBE
1998 - El Capitan: Shortest Straw (New Wave A3+).1st GB Ascent, 6th overall. Partner: Ian Parnell
1999 - The British Baffin Island Expedition. 1st Ascent the Longest Day (900m. ED3 A3+, Scottish VI).Leader. Partners: Twid Turner; Louise Thomas; Shaun Hutson
2000 - The British Borneo Expedition. 1st Ascent the Crucible (A3+, E4 6a, 900m.). Leader: Partners: Twid Turner; Steve Long; Louise Thomas
2004 - The British Cerro Torre Expedition. SE Ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia (3,128m., A2, E2 5c, Scottish VI, 2000m.). Reached the shoulder twice but failed due to incessant storms. Leader. Partners: Kenton Cool; Guy Willett
2006 - MAD ’06 – Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar. Re-equipped and climbed Gondwanaland (800m, 7c max, 7a+ oblig.). Plus, numerous Free Big Wall routes including Out of Africa (550m., 7a), and Always the Sun (450m., 7c+ – first onsight). Leader. Partners: John and Anne Arran; Gareth Parry; Giles Cornah
2008 - Trango Tower (6,232m.) Karakorum, Pakistan. Aim: First Free ascent of Eternal Flame – 800m 35 pitches ABO Fr. 8a. Reached 5,950m. but -30C conditions and gale force winds forced retreat. Film “DiabetAttitude” won various international film awards. Leader. Partners: Gaz Parry; Dennis Roy; Pierre Muller; Davis Kaszlikowski; Eliza Kubarska
2013 – Wall of Paine, Patagonia. 1st Ascent of SE face of South Tower of Paine (A3+, E4 6a, 1300m.). Leader. Partners: Twid Turner; Calum Muskett; Raphael Jochaud (cameraman)
2016 - Jagged Globe, East Nepal Expedition Cholatse SW Ridge (6,440m.). Most technical commercial objective in the Himalayas. First Type 1 Diabetic Himalayan Mountain Guide. Took 9 clients to the summit. Chief Guide: Mal Haskins
2021 - The K2 Insulin Challenge. Climber. The aim was to acclimatise on Broad Peak (8,052m.) and then summit on K2 (8,611m.). Then reconnoitre a potential new route on Broad Peak with my partner Rick Allen. I acclimatised and reached Camp 3 on Broad Peak at 7,300m. Then at the very start of my attempt to summit K2, Rick Allen died in an avalanche on the East Face, forcing retreat.
